First, thank you for giving these cats a second chance at life, many of them come from dire situations at no fault of their own, and they are forced to leave the only home they have ever known. While we prefer to avoid relocation, as it is very stressful, it is the best chance for many cats to live out their days safely, and they will in return provide the service of green rodent-control.
Second, it is imperative that you read the full instructions on relocation provided below. It is vital to a successful transition to a new property and deviating from this guide could very well result in the loss of your newly adopted barn cats. Cats will try to return to their home territory if released in a new location too soon. Please reach out to our TNR team with any questions or concerns along the way – we are always a resource available to you.
Community cats live outdoors in groups called colonies. They may be feral or friendly, may have been born in the wild or may be abandoned pets. Community cats and pet cats are all members of the same species but differ in behavior, especially behavior towards people.
A feral cat is not likely to enjoy living indoors in close proximity to people, but eventually will form a bond with their caretaker that will develop over time as trust is built.
Barn cats from CVRR may vary in behavior and personality. Some cats may be very friendly with people while others will never let you touch them. Our TNR team will work with you to determine the best match possible, but please keep in mind that many of these cats are feral and are in the greatest need of a new outdoor home.
The more feral the cat, the more you should avoid locating their “safe area” near busy roads or high-foot-traffic areas. Their “safe area” should be a location where the cats can feel safe. A barn or building structure is necessary for setting up their safe area, as it needs to be protected from the elements and wildlife.
Our TNR team can help you with any supplies that are needed for acclimating barn cats.
ENCLOSED SPACE: The first thing you will need is a large dog crate or some other type of secure enclosure; this is where the cats will stay for the first 3-4 weeks of acclimation. This confinement is vital to allow the cats to adjust to the new environment safely and to accept it as their new home with you as their new caretaker. This also gives you a chance to bond with the cats prior to release. If you release a cat immediately upon arrival – they will almost always run away in attempt to return home.
LITTERBOX + LITTER: Inside the enclosed space you will need to have at least one litterbox. These cats are not necessarily litterbox trained, but cats are very savvy and will adjust to using it quickly. We recommend using a natural or pellet litter.
FOOD + WATER: We recommend feeding cats both wet and dry food during the acclimation process. This will help them bond with you as you are the giver of food! Treats can also help but some cats may not like treats. You will need at least 3 bowls – one for food, one for water, and one for wet food. The bowls that clip onto the side of crates are strongly recommended. Cats must be given food and water daily.
HIDING SPOT: Providing a safe spot for them to hide in their enclosed space will help the cats feel secure, and also will aid you in cleaning the litterbox and feeding them. This can be a carrier, a cardboard box, or a plastic tote with a hole cut out.
INSULATION: Straw is needed to provide warmth and insulation to help the cat survive the cold weather. There are also fancier options such as a heat lamp, space heater, and self-warming cat beds. Blankets are NOT recommended, as they will actually become stiff and cold in winter weather.
Cats need help staying warm during cold weather. If you do not have a temperature-controlled area for an enclosure, then the cats will need a winter shelter inside their enclosure as well as after they are released from the enclosed area. There are many cheap, DIY winter shelter instructions for outdoor cats online, and we are happy to provide you with instructions or we can also give you a winter shelter. Straw is a wonderful insulator for cats because it does not retain moisture.
The first week will be the most stressful. During the first few days, the cats will likely try to find a way out of the enclosure. Most cats will settle down once they realize they are safe and being cared for daily. While they are confined, they must have clean water and fresh food every day. The litterbox can be cleaned or dumped & refilled periodically. Please take extreme caution every time you open their enclosure to prevent any escape attempts. We recommend encouraging the cat(s) to hide in their hiding space while the enclosure is open.
Feeding the cats some yummy wet food is an excellent way to help the cats adjust during the confinement. We also strongly encourage you to feed at the same time everyday, at a time that’s most convenient for you. If the cats are very feral or scared, they may not eat until you are out of sight. Cats thrive in routine and dislike change. Having a daily feeding schedule will help them adjust and you may even find them anticipating your arrival eagerly. Continue the routine after the cats are released – this encourages the cats to come for food at the same time every day.
Keep in mind that cats burn more calories in the winter, so more wet food should be given during winter months. Cats will typically hunt rodents whether they are well-fed or not, as it’s in their nature. Cats cannot live off of rodents alone so providing them with proper food is vital.
If insects become a problem with the cat food, then there are ant-proof bowls and many other methods online to help keep bugs at bay. Diatomaceous Earth is an excellent and safe product that you can sprinkle around food bowls or in bedding to help rid of insects and fleas.
WET FOOD + TREATS: Yummy wet food and treats are a great tool for forming a bond with your new cat(s). They make it possible for the cats to form a positive association between food and you. When you enter a the area to give them a treat, they will be happier to see you the next time you come around! At first they may be very hesitant or nervous to take a treat from you or eat while you are watching, but gently tossing them within their reach will be just as effective.
AUDIO CUE: We encourage all caretakers to make a type of audio cue before feeding at each meal. This can be a whistle, a bell, shaking of dry food, or speaking out to them. The goal is to create an association for the cats that when they hear the audio cue – that means food will follow. This will also help if the cat goes missing or is not present at future mealtimes; you can use the audio cue to call them and they will be more likely to come at the hope of food.
CAT BEHAVIOR: Cats respond very well to positive reinforcement, especially that of food. Cats can also be intimidated by direct eye contact; blinking very slowly or avoiding eye contact help keep them calm. If a cat continues to be scared of you or hides, try not to get frustrated. Some cats may always be fearful of people but that doesn’t mean they don’t need or rely on you any less. A cat’s natural fear of the unknown is a survival skill that helps keep them alive, they may have a past where humans were not so kind to them, be patient and learn to love them from a distance. They appreciate you even when they cannot show it.
Cats must stay confined inside an enclosure for at least 3-4 weeks.
The cat(s) may show you signs that they are close to being ready for release. If they have become very familiar and comfortable with you in their presence, especially if they come out for every meal or allow you to pet them, then you can start to think about releasing (as long as it’s after 3 weeks minimum confinement period). **The ONLY exception to the 3-4 week rule is very friendly cats, which you can consider releasing earlier.**
- Choose a release day that has a decent weather forecast. Storms, rain and other bad weather may scare them into hiding or they may run away.
- Make sure it is fairly quiet and calm with low foot-traffic on the day you release them.
- Create nearby hiding places where the cats can go to hide after being released, like bales of straw, hay, or boxes. If release is done during colder months, be sure the cats have adequate winter shelter such as large styrofoam coolers stuffed with straw.
- After release, cats may take some time to leave the safety of their enclosure to explore their surroundings, so just open the door and be patient. Let the cats come out on their own time.
- Keep the enclosure open and available to them during the first week or two after release to help them feel safer.
- Encourage the cats to return at the same time each day using the audio cue and smelly food. They may be more hesitant to approach after release.
The following tips are recommended by caregivers where relocations were most successful:
- Cats were confined in adequate climate for 3-4 weeks with the option to release sooner if the cats become agitated and regress.
- Cats were fed canned food every day for a period of 2-6 weeks and then changed to dry food with the option of continuing canned food.
- The new caregiver made frequent (twice daily minimum) verbal communications with the cats. Avoid staring so they don’t interpret aggression. Slowly blinking at cats also puts them at ease and they will often blink back when relaxed.
- While the cats might not know how to use them, toys and catnip can be presented to them for comfort. These toys will help take the cat’s mind off of the stress of relocation and can serve as a distraction.
UPPER RESPIRATORY INFECTIONS (URIs): Many cats will get kitty colds during season changes just like people. There are also many cats who have Feline Herpesvirus which causes symptoms of URIs. Most URIs will clear up on their own given some time. However, there may be times where cats will need some help if it develops into a bacterial infection. Lysine is a great product that can be sprinkled on food that helps with the severity of URIs. CVRR can also help with oral antibiotics that can mixed into the food. In some cases, the cat(s) may need to be re-trapped and taken to a vet for an antibiotic or steroid shot. Signs that a cat may need an antibiotic include green discharge from the nose, eyes crusted over or red impairing vision, or a significant decrease in appetite as well as lethargy.
OTHER ILLNESSES: If you become concerned about the cat’s health, then please don’t hesitate to reach out to our TNR team. Please remember that the more feral the cat, the more difficult it can be to treat sickness. In some cases, the cat(s) may need to be re-trapped and taken to a vet for an exam and treatment.
Please remember that many illnesses and diseases are feline specific, meaning they cannot be transmitted to people or even to other animals. If you are concerned about your pets catching an illness from the cats, then please reach out to us via email.
In the event a cat becomes injured, please email our TNR Team. For serious injuries, such as being hit by a car or attacked by an animal, please call the CVRR phone and leave a message stating that it’s an emergency. For most injuries, we ask that you send a picture or video so that we can assess what needs to be done.
Limping is not an emergency. However, if a cat continuously refuses to put any weight on a leg or foot, then this could indicate a broken bone which will require a vet visit.
Please remember that the more feral the cat, the more difficult it may be to treat their injuries. In some cases, the cat(s) may need to be re-trapped in order to be brought to a vet.
Our goal is to give every cat flea/tick treatment prior to being relocated. However, these treatments typically only last for about one month. We are happy to help provide ongoing flea & tick treatment, but please keep in mind that many of these cats you cannot apply the treatment to since they prefer not to be touched. For cats that cannot be touched, they would need to be re-trapped and possibly sedated at a vet office every time they need treatment. For this reason, we recommend not treating feral cats unless it becomes a concern.
Diatomaceous Earth is a great product that is effective in keeping fleas & ticks at bay on animals. This can be sprinkled all over their bedding and in straw to help rid the cats of both fleas & ticks. It can also be applied directly to cat’s fur but only if the cats are friendly enough to be handled.
We recommend mixing dewormer into cats food every few months to help cut down on internal parasites. If you notice cats vomiting or defecating worms, please email our TNR Team and describe the worms you see if possible. Certain types of worms require a more specific dewormer. We are happy to provide dewormer to you for the cats.
All of our kitties have been spayed/neutered and received a rabies vaccine. We will also try our best to have the rabies vaccine updated if needed in addition to a distemper vaccine before the cats come to you. We are happy to provide traps and cover the cost of updating these cats’ vaccines.
RABIES + DISTEMPER: It is recommended to re-vaccinate cats against rabies every 3 years. However, we understand that feral cats can be extremely difficult to re-trap. Please email us about updating your cat’s vaccines. Both rabies and distemper vaccines are very effective.
